Some of my favorite photographs have been earned through physical toil and hard work as much as artistry and creativity. One of these favorites is a shot I captured from the summit of South Sister. South Sister is normally a long and difficult but not technical climb with a breath taking view as a reward. Several years ago I became determined to climb South Sister with full camping gear as well as my large format 4×5 camera, sleep on the summit and capture morning’s first light on Middle Sister, North Sister, and the rest of the pacific crest extending northward to Mt. St. Helen and Mt Rainier in Washington state. I climbed South Sister three different times with a fourty+ pound pack before finally getting the shot I was after. One of these climbs I did solo, the next with my friend Jake Bell, and the last with friend Brad Hensley and his sister Lisa. The shot came out better than I’d imagined, thereby making all the suffering along the way worthwhile. Below is that shot which I still enjoy, partly because of the work that went into capturing that moment, high in the Central Oregon Cascades.
"Summit Sunrise" Alpenglow illuminating the cascade crest extending from Middle Sister north to Mt. Rainier
Another one of my favorite Central Oregon locations is the Chambers Lakes area high on the crest between South Sister and Middle Sister. It is visible in the lower right hand area of the image above. It is a strange and beautiful alpine terrain along with stunning mountain views that makes this area special. An elusive shot which I’ve obsessed about but has to this day I have not captured includes South Sister reflected in Camp Lake with beautiful alpenglow bathing both of them. A couple years ago friend and fellow photographer, Troy McMullin and I hiked into this high lakes area in early spring only to find the lakes were frozen solid. We got some nice shots but not necessarily the ones we were after. With the recent snows high in the Cascades and a good weather pattern approaching, I decided to revisit the Camp lake area. I contacted several friends all of whom either knew better or were unavailable. I decided to go solo! I loaded camera and overnight gear into my trusty Dana Designs backpack. Starting pack weight topped out at 63 pounds! Yikes! The hike starts at Pole Creek trailhead outside of the city of Sisters. There were only two other cars there and the weather was pleasant, in the high 40′s. After October 15th, the hiking season is unofficially over, trails are no longer maintained and trail head signs were covered for the winter. During the first thirty minutes of hiking I zig-zagged around over thirty down trees blocking the trail. They were mostly beetle killed lodgepoles so it was no real loss to the forest but an inconvenience for me. Eventually the lodgepoles thin out as did the down trees. The trail is 6.5 miles one way to camp Lake and it’s beautiful setting. About half way to Camp Lake the trail was mostly snowed over and eventually I was post holing nearly every step because of my heavy pack. By the time I reached the lake, my legs were aching. My pain was worsened when I reached the lake to find that it was completely frozen over, again! I was devastated. the setting was beautiful, as always, but I would clearly not get the shot I had suffered for.
South Sister perched high above a disappointingly frozen Camp Lake
South Sister and my camp above the frozen Camp Lake just after sunset
The night was cold but beautiful and my beloved Western Mountaineering sleeping bag kept me cozy. The sunrise offered some alpenglow color and clouds that would not cooperate for a truly great photo.
Sunrise color and uncooperative clouds above Central Oregon's South Sister.
Detail of South Sister at sunrise
As the morning progressed, I snapped a few more photos until the light became too harsh. I packed up and enjoyed my last few moments alone at Camp Lake(first time I’ve been the only one spending the night there). The return hike was long but uneventful. I left having spent a beautiful evening at a phenomenal location but not having gotten the shot I was after. The good news is that I’ll soon return to this special location and try to capture the elusive reflection shot I’ve been after for years. If you are like me, you start dreaming about your first civilized meal on the way out of the back country. For my first meal, I chose to visit my good friends at Three Creeks Brewing Company in Sisters. Their signature burger was delicious as always. The Head Brewer, Dave Fleming has recently concocted a phenomenal IPA, call HooDoo VooDoo IPA. An outstandingly aromatic nose leads the way through a wonderfully balanced body and a supple refined finish. It’s a great beer and definitely worth a try if you are ever exploring in the Sisters area.
Nov 19, 2008 | Central Oregon Fine Art Landscape Photography, Oregon Landscape photography blog entries | 3 Comments »
OK, I recognize that this blog entry is a vast deviation from my normal protocol of documenting backcountry adventures highlighted with pleasant images and sprinkled with family details. Well, a lot of friends and family have been clamoring for pictures from our recent trip to Italy so here they are. Debbie(my 1/2 Italian, travel hungry wife) and I have been planning this trip since we were first married. I briefly visited Italy with friend, Scott Witscher, while in college as part of a pilgrimage to see the US soccer team play in the world cup. The U.S. team was fortunately playing in Florence, Italy which subsequently has become one of my favorite cities in the world. The USA got shellacked but Florence was stunning. My dear wife has been pummeled with stories of Italian grandeur for more than a decade until we finally saved enough money to take the trip we really wanted. Our traveling partners, Max and Chris Reitz were also up for the adventure which was something of a departure from our usual backpacking expeditions with them.
Me, Debbie, Chris Reitz, and Max Reitz atop the Duomo, Florence, Italy
We flew into Rome, where we spent three days in the heart of the city. Our accommadations were modest but our location was excellent as most of the major attractions were within easy walking distance of our B&B.
Debbie Putnam in Rome Italy
I was stunned by the sheer volume of historically significant architecture. It would take several lifetimes to explore all the city has to offer. Around every corner was another 2,000 year old roman temple, many which didn’t have informational plaques. We were overwhelmed with antiquities! Some of the highlights were the Forum, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Vatican and I’ll end right there as there were simply too many amazing sites to list.
Obligatory Coliseum Photo
Debbie Putnam and Chris Reitz insuring a future return to Rome at the Trevi Fountain
After Rome, we took a train to Florence, the city that first made me love Italy.
My beautiful Wife waiting to leave Rome
Florence was much more approachable than Rome, in that it was smaller(approximately 500,000 people as opposed to 4,500,000 for Rome) and not so overwhelming in terms of the options. It was everything I’d remembered and hoped it would be. Gorgeous, saturated with history and art, and with a refined yet friendly finish. Granted, some things about Florence seemed a like a fairy tale land, but it was wonderful for three days. We stayed in the Torre Guelfa, built in the 1200’s, this original tower is the highest privately owned tower in Florence. It’s roof top bar/seating area, predictably has a stunning view of the city, and is conveniently located near the city’s center.
sunrise from our hotel with the distant Duomo and campanile, Florence, Italy
Night time from our hotel, Florence, Italy
Arno River sunset two block from the Torre Guelfa, Florence, Italy.
One of the highlights of Florence was it’s seemingly ever present Duomo. It’s exquisite marble exterior and Dome designed by Brunelleschi, were stunning to say the least. If you are ever in Florence wondering if you should pay the 5 Euros to walk to the top of the Duomo, do it. It is sublime. From the close up views of the ceiling of the dome, to the journey through it’s double walled structure to the endless views from the top of the dome, it is well worth the entry fee. Below are several images from Florence’s famous duomo.
The Duomo's intricate marble exterior displays Moorish influence, Florence, Italy
The Duomo's front fascade, Florence, Italy
The Duomo's dome interior, Florence, Italy
Florence's campanile as seen from the top of the Duomo
From Florence, we took a train to Monterosso, one of the five villages which comprise the Cinque Terra area on the northeast coast of Italy. The area was beautiful, defined by steep agriculture laden seaside hills, and attractive, vertically oriented villages built on impossibly angled cliffs. We spent several days there, perhaps one too many. My favorite day was spent hiking the 9 mile trail that extends between the 5 villages. Below are a few images from three of my favorites of the five villages.
Vernazza Italy with its terraced vineyards, orchards, and scenic port
Manarola, Italy
Riomaggiore, Italy, the southernmost of the five villages
The hike between the five villages was beautiful, but crowded. We ate well and stayed at a wonderful hotel, but as I am more of a mountain person than a beach person, this was perhaps my least favorite stop on a stellar vacation. Much of the time in the Cinque Terra area was spent lounging and eating, both pleasant activities, but the region certainly couldn’t compete with the culture and history of Rome and Florence, of course few places in the world can. Below are a couple more shots of my traveling companions, the best anyone could ask for.
Debbie Putnam and Chris Reitz
My long time and great friend, Max reitz, and me.
From Monterosso, we sadly had to part ways from the Reitzs. From there, Debbie and I headed south and east to the premium wine country of southern Tuscany. We stayed in the hilltop town of Montepulciano, perhaps my favorite of the trip. There is something about Montepulciano that tugs at my soul. Perhaps it’s the combination of beautifully maintained medieval architecture, meaningful agriculture(vineyards have persisted here since the 1200’s) and a friendly community feel. I have never claimed to be an expert at Italian Wines, although I am fond of Oregon Pinot Noirs, and Walla Walla Cabs. While in Italy I did find what I like and that was the Vino Nobiles of Montepulciano and the Brunellos of Montalcino. They both had a medium body with pleasant layering and full finishes. Both of these styles are grown in the region of southern Tuscany. While in Montepulciano, we stayed at a beautiful hotel, the historic Villa Poggiano. Below is an olive orchard as seen from the window of our three hundred year old cottage.
View from the window of our 300 year old cottage
Next is a sunset view of the city of Montepulciano taken from near our hotel.
The medieval city of Montepulciano, Italy.
Our first day there was spent exploring, having heart attacks while trying to navigate Italian road signs while driving a tiny but sporty fiat rental and eventually exploring the wonderful city of Montepulciano. It’s ancient and excellently preserved medieval walls are lined with residences, countless wine shops, tasteful gift shops, and exceptional restaurants. Below is a photo that exemplifies part of what is special about this city. It is Debbie strolling through a small handmade ceramics shop’s basement, which incidentally includes an Etruscan tomb in its basement which dates to 300B.C. There are no exterior signs regarding the tombs, nor any national monuments as there would and should be if it was located in the US. It is simply considered a simple side note in an area deeply submerged in layer upon layer of history.
Debbie explores hand made ceramics and Etruscan tombs, montepulciano, Italy.
The tombs are through the door directly to Debbie’s right in this photo. Next is a view from Montepulciano over the surrounding country side.
View over the medieval walls of Montepulciano exposing the Tuscan countryside.
The followong day we explored the beautiful town of San Gimigano and its wonderful medieval towers and the sleepy residential village of Montichiello. San Gimigano, like Montepulciano is famous for its wine and is wonderfully maintained village. Below is a shot taken from the Torre Rosa, the tallest of the 13 medieval towers still standing in the city of San Gimigano.
The city of San Gimigano and Tuscan countryside as seen from the Torre Rosa.
Next is Debbie next to a typical residential staircase in the sleepy hillside town of Montichiello.
Debbie and geraniums, Montichiello, Italy
To be certain the trip was everything we’d hoped for and more. I’d like to thank several people for making this dream vacation possible. First off, Max and Chris Reitz for being great friends and great travel partners. Christine Kieffer, who arranged our itinerary and lodging, both of which were exceptional, Kenny and Flo Scholz(my dreaded inlaws!) who flew in all the way from New Hampshire to take care of our daughter Emma while were away, and finally my Mother, Sheila Putnam,(who I occasionally bicker with but love and trust more than anything) who drove all the way from Iowa to care for Emma. It wouldn’t have been possible without these people. Finally a photo that shows why we were so grateful to be home , even after a trip of a lifetime.
Our wonderful daughter, Emma who makes me smile every day.
Nov 06, 2008 | Oregon Landscape photography blog entries, Travel and Family Photos | 4 Comments »
- Balsamroot in the Columbia River Gorge
On the weekend of May 10th, Emma and I decided to visit our good friends, the Max, Chrissy, Joe Joe and Jill Reitz in Hood River, Oregon. Unfortunately, Chrissy(Momma) Reitz and Joe Joe and Jill were out of town, leaving my long time friend Max as the only one left in the Reitz household. The Weekend was wonderful. Emma and I arose early and shot at Tom McCall nature preserve in the Columbia River Gorge, near Rowena, Oregon. The light was good for macros, but not great for more expansive landscape shots.
Balsamroot and Lupines bloom in the Columbia River Gorge
Several other photographers were at the preserve that morning, shooting and enjoying the scenery. One of the several other photographers I met there, Kim, was nice enough to take some shots of Emma and I and forward them. He has an attractive website, which you should visit if you like landscapes and flower photography. Emma, through her mother’s genetics prefers to sleep in and on this we had to awake at 4:30AM to arrive at the Tom McCall Nature Preserve before sunrise. I knew she would be cold, so I brought my orange down jacket, which she fondly refers to as “The Great Pumpkin”. She predictably got cold so I zipped her up in the great pumpkin and she was instantly comfortable. Comfortable enough to fall asleep in the middle of the meadow. Several fellow photographers visited to chat and see my large format view camera and they never knew she was there beside me because her head was tucked inside the pumpkin, making for a very cute photo.
Emma asleep inside "The Great Pumpkin"
Emma Awake at Tom McCall Nature Preserve
We enjoyed the remainder of the day watching while a BMW commercial was being shot near us on the winding roads below Tom McCall nature preserve. There were hundreds of people involved and it was very secretive in that no photographs were allowed because a new sporty car model was being filmed which had not been released to the public. The next day, Max, Emma and I visited Fairy Falls, also in the Columbia River Gorge area and took the following photo of Fairy Falls. We visited several other waterfalls in the gorge that day and as usual enjoyed them immensely.
Fairy Falls
Oct 25, 2008 | Oregon Landscape photography blog entries, Travel and Family Photos | Leave A Comment »
Painted Hills and cumulous clouds
The painted hills unit in the John Day area of Central Oregon has been a favorte of photographers since its discovery because of its stunning colors and other worldly scenery. I’ve been there many times. Some visits were more successful than others, but one particular shot that I’ve obsessed over has eluded me for quite some tome. In early May, in certain years, yellow flowers bloom in the folds of the painted hills, creating a stunning extra element to what would otherwise be an attractive scene. Well, this was one of those few select years.
A lone Painted Hill glows with morning's first light
I left Ben Oregon early on MAy 30th to scout the painted hills. To my excitement, the chenactis and golden bee plants were blooming just as I’d hoped. The ranger, Scott, a very nice fellow, said it had been five years since they had bloomed in the folds of the painted hills. He even promised an up close guided tour of the hills if I returned that evening, so I returned to Bend and returned later that evening, with my wife, Debbieand daughter, Emma. I was fortunate enough to capture this image of blooming bee plants in the grooves of the painted hills the next morning.
Chenactis flowers and Painted Hills, central Oregon
It was truly a privilege to get such wonderful access to such a special location. This short trip was any landscape photographer’s dream. Great sunrises, sunsets, phenomenal subject matter and my little family camping in the great outdoors.
Sunset on the Painted Hills of John Day
Below you’ll find a shot Of Emma and Debbie in our little tent at the end of a long day of hiking in the John Day unit of the painted hills of Oregon.
Emma and Debbie
Oct 24, 2008 | Oregon Landscape photography blog entries, Travel and Family Photos | 3 Comments »
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