Archive for November, 2008

Central Oregon Snow Photos

     Virtually everywhere I go around Bend I’ve been hearing people praying to the proverbial snow gods.  As it’s nearly December and there is only the lightest dusting of snow on our local mountains it would be good for everyone except my wife( she never wants cold or snow except on Christmas) if we were to get several heavy dumps of snow.  In terms of my photography, I would definitely like some snow to cover dormant plants and to give the cascades a more alpine look and feel.  I’ve got several exciting winter photography outings planned but no winter with which to work.  Instead of fretting over sub optimal landscape photography conditions I’ve been working on some stock photography chores on the computer.  I’d always rather be outside exploring but at least I’ve been fairly  productive while waiting for the snow to fall.  In anticipation of a late but inevitable winter, I’ve put together some of my favorite winter photos from previous years.  All of these images were captured with my large format camera which can be a bit tedious but when I get it right it allows me to make stunning fine art prints.   The first photo is our beloved Mt. Bachelor in its full winter glory, clearly not shot this year.  This photo was taken two years ago in January.  I’d been tracking weather patterns for over a week and was fortunate enough to capture this image at sunrise the morning after a 28 inch snow fall.  

Mt. Bachelor at sunrise after a heavy snow fall.

Mt. Bachelor at sunrise after a heavy snow fall.

 This photograph like most backcountry winter images required lots of work.  An early rise, a brutal snow shoe up Tumalo Mountain through deep snows with a heavy camera pack while the thermometer reading hovered at zero degrees fahrenheit.  Getting to a winter shot is only part of the battle.  Finding a level spot to set up a tripod so that it doesn’t sink in the snow is always a difficult task.  Snow blowing onto my lens and leaving fuzzy areas on my images can be disastrous.  Accidently breathing on my lens is inconvenient at best as it takes a bit of time before the haze will clear and if its too cold, my breath freezes on the lens making my photos look like they were shot through an opaque shower door.  Not Good.  Finally there’s the frustration of the visual qualities of snow itself.  If I can’t get to snow before its been exposed to the sun, it is virtually never visually attractive.  Here in Central Oregon, it is often sunny right after a storm, melting the snow and making unsightly bare patches contrast unattractively against still snow covered areas.  Essentially, if you want a really attractive winter landscape photo you need to be there right after a fresh snowfall and hope the wind hasn’t already blown the snows off of the trees in the area you want to shoot.

      I love alpenglow photos like this one because I like color in my images and because they are a reminder how how special it is to spend time in the mountains.  Where else can you get two free and beautiful light shows daily,  courtesy of Mother Nature? 

     The following image was logistically simpler but still had its difficulties.  

My favorite ponderosa grove, near Sisters, Oregon.

My favorite ponderosa grove, near Sisters, Oregon.

I was fortunate enough to get to this, my favorite grove of Ponderosa trees during an active snow storm.  During my extensive scouting trips around Central Oregon, this is perhaps the most colorful group of ponderosa trees I’ve found and as a bonus they have a nice composition.  If you live around ponderosa trees you’ve probably noticed that they are not all created equal.  Some have considerably more reddish color to their wonderful jigsaw puzzle bark than others do.  I have a theory about why this is.  It seems that the more colorful side of any given ponderosa tree is virtually always the side of the trunk that is more slanted toward the ground and therefore more sheltered from prevailing weather patterns.  It just so happens that all of these ponderosas had a slight tilt towards where I was shooting from and therefore they all have exceptionally colorful bark.  Because the snow was actively falling while I was capturing this scene, the foreground was well covered giving this scene a very wintry feel.  

     The next photo is of Benham Falls, on the river trail, near Bend.  It was taken immediately after a heavy early season snow storm.  My daughter, Emma was with me on this adventure, like many of my other photography outings.  There are several things about this photograph that are special in my opinion.  First, the fresh snow allows for a wintry look, like all of the winter photos I am especially proud to have taken.  I love the flow patterns of the Deschutes, the icicles draped off of the rocks along the river’s shores and the heavy snow laden evergreen branches sagging under their new found burden.  I think this image

Central Oregon's Benham Falls in winter.

Central Oregon's Benham Falls in winter.

 will make an excellent fine art print because of its various patterns and textures.   

     The next image in this small snow dance collection was taken in Tumalo State Park, and once again, it was taken immediately after a heavy snowfall giving the vibrant red osier dogwood in the foreground an attractive texture of winter.  While this is a simple image, I still enjoy the composition and angles created by the silky waters of the Middle Deschutes River in the background and the ruby glow of the foreground dogwood.  

Red Osier Dogwood along the Middle Deschutes River.

Red Osier Dogwood along the Middle Deschutes River.

Granted, this is a small collection of winter images but hopefully it will give some hope to those of you who crave fresh powder on Mt. Bachelor until Mother Nature can finally answer your prayers for snow.


Central Oregon Virtual Autumn Road-Trip

    As our daylight shortens,  the colors fade and hard frosts glaze my lawn nightly, I submit that Fall, perhaps my favorite season has officially come to an end.  I would argue that autumn os our most under rated season in the High Desert of Central Oregon.  The core of Bend is awash in the yellows and reds of maples and the oranges of mountain ash.  Riparian zones along the Deschutes River are ablaze with the reds of red osier dogwoods and the yellows of alders.  The Santiam and Mckenzie Rivers  are second to nowhere for the intensity of their vine maples.  Anyone who has driven over Santiam Pass in October can attest to the splendor of lava fields aglow with vine maples in full seasonal regalia.  I’ve put together a small collection of images celebrating the autumn color of the Central Oregon area.  Some of these images were captured in previous years while some were just weeks ago.  For emphasis, I’ll take you on a virtual road trip, leaving from my front door.  We’ll wonder a couple blocks away to Bend’s pride and joy, Drake Park and Mirror Pond.  I rarely take photos of scenes that have houses or obvious indications of human habitation but for Mirror Pond I make an exception.  When My wife , Debbie and I were planning on leaving the East coast, I stumbled upon a Bend Chamber of Commerce website with Mirror Pond as it’s lead shot.  I was smitten!  Imagine glaciated volcanoes framed by huge Ponderosa pines edging the wild and scenic Deschutes River right in the heart of Bend’s downtown area.  Wow!  I knew where I wanted to live.  Below is an autumn sunrise shot from the location that sold me on Bend.

 Autumn sunrise over Bend, Oregon's Mirror Pond

Autumn sunrise over Bend, Oregon's Mirror Pond

From Bend we hop into our fuel efficient hybrid vehicle (this is Oregon after all) and head west on highway 20 towards the storied Metolius River and the quaintly rustic town of Camp Sherman.  Below is an image I’ve never published before.  I enjoy the Ponderosa trees that partially define the Metolius basin and the golden fringe enhancing the rivers elegantly curving shores.  I’m going to paraphrase a section I read from a fishing guide about the Metolius River which I think also applies to photographing the Metolius basin.  ”If you can’t enjoy time spent in exploring the Metolius, you have no soul.”  Perhaps a bit extreme but people who are fortunate enough to have spent time along the Metolius’ shores will admit that it is a truly  special place whether fishing, photographing or exploring.

 

Central Oregon's Metolius River fringed by golden shores and saluted by land locked ponderosa trees.

Central Oregon's Metolius River fringed by golden shores and saluted by land locked ponderosa trees.

Next we continue west over the lava fields of Santiam Pass and down to the diminutive community of Marion Forks.  The following image is from the shores of the North Santiam River slightly west of the cascade crest.   I love the strong vertical pattern contrasting with the technicolor display.

Autumn colors and patterns along the North Santiam river

Autumn colors and patterns along the North Santiam river

 The following image is also along the Santiam River.  I make an annual visit to this vine maple and its double layer effect.  One layer of varied color and literal layers of branches gracefully extending beyond the river’s banks.  There’s something about this expressive tree and its gorgeous annual display that always makes my return visits worth while.

 

Expressive vine maple overhanging the banks of the North Santiam River, in the Oregon Cascades.

Expressive vine maple overhanging the banks of the North Santiam River, in the Oregon Cascades.

Next I move along to the McKenzie River and one of my favorite autumn scenes.  This image is also about texture and color.  It was an amazing view and made a wonderful fine art print with its combination of delicacy, vibrancy and and compostion.  I love the flowing feel offered by the moss streaming down upon  the vine maples akin to the rain that gently fell upon me as I captured this image.  I returned to this location four times before I found the desired synergy of color, texture and light.

 

Vine maples in autumn adornment merge with cascading moss in the Oregon Cascades.

Vine maples in autumn adornment merge with cascading moss in the Oregon Cascades.

 Next we proceed to Scott Lake, near McKenzie Pass.  Every year the Huckleberry bushes along the Lakes shore put on a display that is muted by the drama of the distant snow-covered cascade mountains .

 

Scott Lake in autumn color reflecting the three sisters(from left to right) North Sister, Middle Sister, and South Sister.

Scott Lake in autumn color reflecting the three sisters(from left to right) North Sister, Middle Sister, and South Sister.

Now traveling east, we pass Belknap Crater the martian-like lava flows of McKenzie Pass and make a quick stop at yet another surreal alpine scene.  the following image is a jumble of textures and color as Huckleberries, Blueberries and willows intertwine in front of a lodgepole pine tree audience.

 

blueberry, huckleberry and willow mix in an alpine meadow near McKenzie Pass.

blueberry, huckleberry and willow mix in an alpine meadow near McKenzie Pass.

Now we progress back toward the town of Bend stopping just shy at Tumalo State Park, one of my formerly secret autumn locations.  On certain years, like the one from the image below, the color can be outstanding and the scenery is always pleasant , even in less than optimal years.

Autumn color along an oxbow bend in Central Oregon's Tumalo State Park.

Autumn color along an oxbow bend in Central Oregon's Tumalo State Park.

Passing through my beloved city of Bend, we now turn west on Galveston street and turn west towards Tumalo Creek.  The following image was taken with cutest and sweetest assistant possible, my daughter, Emma.  It was raining hard and I fought with water spots on my lens for quite some time before capturing the silky flow of Tumalo Falls and the pastels hues of the surrounding riparian environment. We got drenched but I got the shot from an Iconic Central Oregon location.

Central Oregon's Tumalo Falls in Autumn

Central Oregon's Tumalo Falls in Autumn

 

 Finally, we meander down to the Deschutes River and its famed River Trail where I captured this image of the river in full autumn color.  I recently licensed this image to Orvis, the fly-fishing company for use in one of their stores.  I love the color, the flow patterns, and the lava background which in part helps to define this special area of the world that I call home.  

Central Oregon's Deschutes River in full autumn color.

Central Oregon's Deschutes River in full autumn color.

It should be understood that I did not capture all of these images in the same year, much less the same day.  Having said that, this trip can easily be taken in one day and beautiful color can almost always be found somewhere along the way in the month of October and early November.


South Sister, Camp Lake and Expeditionary Art

 

    Some of my favorite photographs have been earned through physical toil and hard work as much as artistry and creativity.  One of these favorites is a shot I captured from the summit of South Sister.  South Sister is normally a long and difficult but not technical climb with a breath taking view as a reward.  Several years ago I became determined to climb South Sister with full camping gear as well as my large format 4×5 camera, sleep on the summit and capture morning’s first light on Middle Sister, North Sister, and the rest of the pacific crest extending northward  to Mt. St. Helen and Mt Rainier in Washington state.  I climbed South Sister three different times with a fourty+ pound pack before finally getting the shot I was after.  One of these climbs I did solo, the next with my friend Jake Bell, and the last with friend Brad Hensley and his sister Lisa.  The shot came out better than I’d imagined, thereby making all the suffering along the way worthwhile.  Below is that shot which I still enjoy, partly because of the work that went into capturing that moment, high in the Central Oregon Cascades.

"Summit Sunrise" Alpenglow illuminating the cascade crest extending from Middle Sister north to Mt. Rainier

"Summit Sunrise" Alpenglow illuminating the cascade crest extending from Middle Sister north to Mt. Rainier

 Another one of my favorite Central Oregon locations is the Chambers Lakes area high on the crest between South Sister and Middle Sister. It is visible in the lower right hand area of the image above.   It is a strange and beautiful alpine terrain along with stunning mountain views that makes this area special.  An elusive shot which I’ve obsessed about but has to this day I have not captured includes South Sister reflected in Camp Lake with beautiful alpenglow bathing both of them.  A couple years ago friend and fellow photographer, Troy McMullin and I hiked into this high lakes area in early spring only to find the lakes were frozen solid.  We got some nice shots but not necessarily the ones we were after.  With the recent snows high in the Cascades and a good weather pattern approaching, I decided to revisit the Camp lake area.  I contacted several friends all of whom either knew better or were unavailable.  I decided to go solo!  I loaded camera and overnight gear into my trusty Dana Designs backpack.  Starting pack weight topped out at 63 pounds!  Yikes!  The hike starts at Pole Creek trailhead outside of the city of Sisters.  There were only two other cars there and the weather was pleasant, in the high 40’s.  After October 15th, the hiking season is unofficially over, trails are no longer maintained and trail head signs were covered for the winter.  During the first thirty minutes of hiking I zig-zagged around over thirty down trees blocking the trail.  They were mostly beetle killed lodgepoles so it was no real loss to the forest but an inconvenience for me.  Eventually the lodgepoles thin out as did the down trees.  The trail is 6.5 miles one way to camp Lake and it’s beautiful setting.  About half way to Camp Lake the trail was mostly snowed over and eventually I was post holing nearly every step because of my heavy pack.  By the time I reached the lake, my legs were aching.  My pain was worsened when I reached the lake to find that it was completely frozen over, again!  I was devastated.  the setting was beautiful, as always, but I would clearly not get the shot I had suffered for.  

South Sister perched high above a disappointingly frozen Camp Lake

South Sister perched high above a disappointingly frozen Camp Lake

 

South Sister and my camp above the frozen Camp Lake just after sunset

South Sister and my camp above the frozen Camp Lake just after sunset

  The night was cold but beautiful and my beloved Western Mountaineering sleeping bag kept me cozy. The sunrise offered some alpenglow color and clouds that would not cooperate for a truly great photo.

Sunrise color and uncooperative clouds above central Oregon's South Sister.

Sunrise color and uncooperative clouds above Central Oregon's South Sister.

 

Detail of South Sister at sunrise

Detail of South Sister at sunrise

As the morning progressed, I snapped a few more photos until the light became too harsh.  I packed up and enjoyed my last few moments alone at Camp Lake(first time I’ve been the only one spending the night there).  The return hike was long but uneventful.  I left having spent a beautiful evening at a phenomenal location but not having gotten the shot I was after.  The good news is that I’ll soon return to this special location and try to capture the elusive reflection shot I’ve been after for years.  If you are like me, you start dreaming about your first civilized meal on the way out of the back country.  For my first meal, I chose to visit my good friends at Three Creeks Brewing Company in Sisters.  Their signature burger was delicious as always.  The Head Brewer, Dave Fleming has recently concocted a phenomenal IPA, call HooDoo VooDoo IPA. An outstandingly aromatic nose leads the way through a wonderfully balanced body and a supple refined finish.  It’s a great beer and definitely worth a try if you are ever exploring in the Sisters area.


Big lake, Mt. Washington the Three Sisters and early season Snows

     Typically, in the world of Central Oregon Landscape photography there is a shoulder season between Autumn and winter which can be prolonged and unproductive.  During this shoulder season, which we are in the midst of right now, I always hope for a few light snows that add texture and interest to our Central Oregon Cascades.  There is a fine line, however, between enough snow and too much snow.  Enough snow allows access without requiring overnight camping and snowshoes. Recently we’ve had just enough snow.  One spot I like to visit in our photographic shoulder season is Big Lake.  It is near Hoo Doo Ski area and is beautiful any time of year.  The shoulder seasons are my favorite times of year at Big Lake because of sunsets like I recently experienced there.  Below is the first of many shots I captured that evening.

 

Mt. Washington  and pastel skies reflected in Central Oregon's Big Lake

Mt. Washington and pastel skies reflected in Central Oregon's Big Lake

As the sun slowly faded I enjoyed the kind of light that is a landscape photographer’s dream.  The initial soft pastels hardened into more intensive and contrasty colors.  Below is a photograph taken within 10 minutes of the first, showing a quickly changing set of cloud formations.

 

Mt. Washington and Big Lake's shore line illuminated by pastel skies high in the Central Oregon Cascades.

Mt. Washington and Big Lake's shore line illuminated by pastel skies high in the Central Oregon Cascades.

Next is slightly later image showing Mt. Washington reflected in a small cove along Big Lake’s shore.

 

Mt. Washington reflected in Big Lake, high in the Central Oregon cascades

Mt. Washington reflected in Big Lake, high in the Central Oregon cascades

As the light faded an attractive and almost electric scene developed along Big Lake’s shore line.

 

Big Lake reflects a beautiful sunset high in the Central Oregon Cascades

Big Lake reflects a beautiful sunset high in the Central Oregon Cascades

Soon after the above shot was taken, the light faded, the wind picked up and I packed up my gear and headed home to Bend after a very successful and extremely beautiful sunset.  The next photograph also falls into my “shoulder season” category.  It was obviously taken on a different evening but one that was no less beautiful than the one I enjoyed at Big Lake.  This photograph was taken at Bend’s Tumalo Reservoir.  It is one of my favorite locations for Central Oregon landscape photography for several reasons.  It is close to the city of Bend, and it offers a nice reflection of all three of the Three Sisters Mountains.  The mid ground of the following image is an area commonly known as the skyline forest. This area is privately owned and was previously known as the Bull Springs tree farm.  It is composed of over 33,000 acres and encompasses much of the area between Bend and the Three Sisters Wilderness area.  It would truly be a shame to have this wonderful area developed into a resort with the possibility of over 1,000 homes.  It would be a shameless waist of breeding habitat for elk and mule deer and recreational habitat for people.  Can you imagine the view of the Three Sisters from Awbrey Butte spoiled by a city the size of Sisters where there was once nothing but beautiful ponderosa forests?  Can you next imagine the following image spoiled by a city crowding the area beyond the the reservoir? Groups like the Deschutes Land Trust  are working hard to make sure that the cities of Bend and Sisters never have their view ruined and that valuable wildlife habitat isn’t permanently destroyed so that out of state developers can get richer.  The Deschutes Land Trust is a special group filled with great people, many who I know personally and all of whom have Central Oregon’s best interests in mind Another group worth looking into if you are interested, as I am, in preserving the skyline forest west of Bend, is the Central Oregon Landwatch.

Enough of my conservation ramblings, below is the photograph which reminded me of the struggle to save the skyline forest area.

 

Sunset over Tumalo Reservoir, west of Bend. Just beyond the tree line is the area referred to as the "skyline forest"

Sunset over Tumalo Reservoir, west of Bend. Just beyond the tree line is the area referred to as the "skyline forest"


Shevlin Park, Tumalo Creek, and Fall Color

While on a recent trail run, with Debbie, I was stunned by the fall color in Shevlin Park, one of the true jewels in Bend’s park system.  I’ve been there hundreds of times before but this time was different.  During our usual Shevlin Park Trail Loop run, I found myself repeatedly stumbling while craning my neck for a better look at the outstanding fall color.  I’ve never witnessed such a display there especially along Tumalo Creek near the far end of the loop trail.  I returned three times specifically for photographic purposes and got better images than ever before from that location.  Below is perhaps my favorite.  I love the flow of the water, the  color is of course excellent, and the fact that I was able to work a couple Ponderosa trees into the composition.  Shevlin Park was thankfully spared from logging and therefore has a wonderful assortment of medium to old growth ponderosa trees.  Including ponderosas in the composition helped capture what Shevlin Park means to me.

Beautiful fall color emanates from the riparian banks of Shevlin Park's Tumalo Creek.

Beautiful fall color emanates from the riparian banks of Shevlin Park's Tumalo Creek.

The above image was captured near the up stream end of the Shevlin Park Loop making it a little more than a short stroll to get there.  The next image was taken closer to the park’s parking area.  It shows Larch trees(sometimes referred to as tamarack trees)  in vibrant autumn color framing the distant Tumalo Creek which runs through Shevlin Park.  as many of you know, Larch trees are the only evergreen trees that lose their needles annually.  Is that an oxymoron or what?  Shortly before losing their needles they turn an attractive golden color.

Larch trees in autumn color along Shevlin Park's Tumalo Creek in Bend, Oregon

Larch trees in autumn color along Shevlin Park's Tumalo Creek in Bend, Oregon

Finally I’ll include a closer image of Tumalo Creek’s atractive flow pattern adorned by autumn color on both of its shores.

Autumn color along the banks of Shevlin Park's Tumalo Creek

Autumn color along the banks of Shevlin Park's Tumalo Creek

Hopefully, my large format images from these sessions will turn out as well as the digital versions and I’ll finally make a fine art print that does justice to one of my favorite Bend area locations.  In the future, I hope to give quick accounts of some of my outings so that others can share in beautiful Central Oregon locations at their seasonal best.  If you know of other hikers, trail runners, backpackers or outdoor enthusiasts who would like seasonal trail updates for the Central Oregon area, Please link them to the following website Bend Oregon Hiking.


Italian Expedition

      OK, I recognize that this blog entry is a vast deviation from my normal protocol of documenting backcountry adventures highlighted with pleasant images and sprinkled with family details.  Well, a lot of friends and family have been clamoring for pictures from our recent trip to Italy so here they are.  Debbie(my 1/2 Italian, travel hungry wife) and I have been planning this trip since we were first married.  I briefly visited Italy with friend, Scott Witscher,  while in college as part of a pilgrimage to see the US soccer team play in the world cup.  The U.S. team was fortunately playing in Florence, Italy which subsequently has become one of my favorite cities in the world.  The USA got shellacked but Florence was stunning.  My dear wife has been pummeled with stories of Italian grandeur for more than a decade until we finally saved enough money to take the trip we really wanted. Our traveling partners, Max and Chris Reitz were also up for the adventure which was something of a departure from our usual backpacking expeditions with them. 

 

Me, Debbie, Chris Reitz, and Max Reitz atop the Duomo, Florence, Italy

Me, Debbie, Chris Reitz, and Max Reitz atop the Duomo, Florence, Italy

We flew into Rome, where we spent three days in the heart of the city.  Our accommadations were modest but our location was excellent as most of the major attractions were within easy walking distance of our B&B.

 

Debbie Putnam in Rome Italy

Debbie Putnam in Rome Italy

    I was stunned by the sheer volume of historically significant architecture.  It would take several lifetimes to explore all the city has to offer. Around every corner was another 2,000 year old roman temple, many which didn’t have informational plaques.  We were overwhelmed with antiquities!  Some of the highlights were the Forum, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Vatican and I’ll end right there as there were simply too many amazing sites to list.

Obligatory Coliseum Photo

Obligatory Coliseum Photo

Debbie Putnam and Chris Reitz insuring a future return to Rome at the Trevi Fountain

Debbie Putnam and Chris Reitz insuring a future return to Rome at the Trevi Fountain

 After Rome, we took a train to Florence, the city that first made me love Italy. 

My beautiful Wife waiting to leave Rome

My beautiful Wife waiting to leave Rome

Florence was much more approachable than Rome, in that it was smaller(approximately 500,000 people as opposed to 4,500,000 for Rome) and not so overwhelming in terms of the options.  It was everything I’d remembered and hoped it would be.  Gorgeous, saturated with history and art, and with a refined yet friendly finish.  Granted, some things about Florence seemed a like a fairy tale land, but it was wonderful for three days.  We stayed in the Torre Guelfa, built in the 1200’s, this original tower is the highest privately owned tower in Florence.  It’s roof top bar/seating area, predictably has a stunning view of the city, and is conveniently located near the city’s center.   

sunrise from our hotel with the distant Duomo and campanile, Florence, Italy

sunrise from our hotel with the distant Duomo and campanile, Florence, Italy

Night time from our hotel, Florence, Italy

Night time from our hotel, Florence, Italy

Arno River sunset two block from the Torre Guelfa, Florence, Italy.

Arno River sunset two block from the Torre Guelfa, Florence, Italy.

One of the highlights of Florence was it’s seemingly ever present Duomo.  It’s exquisite marble exterior and Dome designed by Brunelleschi, were stunning to say the least.  If you are ever in Florence wondering if you should pay the 5 Euros to walk to the top of the Duomo, do it.  It is sublime.  From the close up views of the ceiling of the dome, to the journey through it’s double walled structure to the endless views from the top of the dome, it is well worth the entry fee.  Below are several images from Florence’s famous duomo.

The Duomo's intricate marble exterior displays Moorish influence, Florence, Italy

The Duomo's intricate marble exterior displays Moorish influence, Florence, Italy

The Duomo's front fascade, Florence, Italy

The Duomo's front fascade, Florence, Italy

The Duomo's dome interior, Florence, Italy

The Duomo's dome interior, Florence, Italy

Florence's campanile as seen from the top of the Duomo

Florence's campanile as seen from the top of the Duomo

From Florence, we took a train to Monterosso, one of the five villages which comprise the Cinque Terra area on the northeast coast of Italy.  The area was beautiful, defined by steep agriculture laden seaside hills, and attractive, vertically oriented villages built on impossibly angled cliffs.  We spent several days there, perhaps one too many.  My favorite day was spent hiking the 9 mile trail that extends between the 5 villages.  Below are a few images from three of my favorites of the five villages.

Vernazza Italy with its terraced vineyards, orchards, and scenic port

Vernazza Italy with its terraced vineyards, orchards, and scenic port

Manarola, Italy

Manarola, Italy

Riomaggiore, Italy, the southernmost of the five villages

Riomaggiore, Italy, the southernmost of the five villages

The hike between the five villages was beautiful, but crowded.  We ate well and stayed at a wonderful hotel, but as I am more of a mountain person than a beach person, this was perhaps my least favorite stop on a stellar vacation.  Much of the time in the Cinque Terra area was spent lounging and eating, both pleasant activities, but the region certainly couldn’t compete with the culture and history of Rome and Florence, of course few places in the world can.  Below are a couple more shots of my traveling companions, the best anyone could ask for.

Debbie Putnam and Chris Reitz

Debbie Putnam and Chris Reitz

My long time and great friend, Max reitz, and me.

My long time and great friend, Max reitz, and me.

From Monterosso, we sadly had to part ways from the Reitzs.  From there, Debbie and I headed south and east to the premium wine country of southern Tuscany.  We stayed in the hilltop town of Montepulciano, perhaps my favorite of the trip.  There is something about Montepulciano that tugs at my soul.  Perhaps it’s the combination of beautifully maintained medieval architecture, meaningful agriculture(vineyards have persisted here since the 1200’s) and a friendly community feel.  I have never claimed to be an expert at Italian Wines, although I am fond of Oregon Pinot Noirs, and Walla Walla Cabs.  While in Italy I did find what I like and that was the Vino Nobiles of Montepulciano and the Brunellos of Montalcino.  They both had a medium body with pleasant layering and full finishes.  Both of these styles are grown in the region of southern Tuscany.  While in Montepulciano, we stayed at a beautiful hotel, the historic Villa Poggiano.  Below is an olive orchard as seen from the window of our three hundred year old cottage.

View from the window of our 300 year old cottage

View from the window of our 300 year old cottage

Next is a sunset view of the city of Montepulciano taken from near our hotel.

The medieval city of Montepulciano, Italy.

The medieval city of Montepulciano, Italy.

Our first day there was spent exploring,  having heart attacks while trying to navigate Italian road signs while driving a tiny but sporty fiat rental and eventually exploring the wonderful city of Montepulciano.  It’s ancient and excellently preserved medieval walls are lined with residences, countless wine shops, tasteful gift shops, and exceptional restaurants.  Below is a photo that exemplifies part of what is special about this city.  It is Debbie strolling through a small handmade ceramics shop’s basement, which incidentally includes an Etruscan tomb in its basement which dates to 300B.C.  There are no exterior signs regarding the tombs, nor any national monuments as there would and should be if it was located in the US.  It is simply considered a simple side note in an area deeply submerged in layer upon layer of history.

Debbie explores hand made ceramics and Etruscan tombs, montepulciano, Italy.

Debbie explores hand made ceramics and Etruscan tombs, montepulciano, Italy.

The tombs are through the door directly to Debbie’s right in this photo.  Next is a view from Montepulciano over the surrounding country side. 

 

View over the medieval walls of Montepulciano exposing the Tuscan countryside.

View over the medieval walls of Montepulciano exposing the Tuscan countryside.

     The followong day we explored the beautiful town of San Gimigano and its wonderful medieval towers and the sleepy residential village of Montichiello.  San Gimigano, like Montepulciano is famous for its wine and is wonderfully maintained village.  Below is a shot taken from the Torre Rosa, the tallest of the 13 medieval towers still standing in the city of San Gimigano.

The city of San Gimigano and Tuscan countryside as seen from the Torre Rosa.

The city of San Gimigano and Tuscan countryside as seen from the Torre Rosa.

Next is Debbie next to a typical residential staircase in the sleepy hillside town of Montichiello.

Debbie and geraniums, Montichiello, Italy

Debbie and geraniums, Montichiello, Italy

To be certain the trip was everything we’d hoped for and more.  I’d like to thank several people for making this dream vacation possible.  First off, Max and Chris Reitz for being great friends and great travel partners.  Christine Kieffer, who arranged our itinerary and lodging, both of which were exceptional, Kenny and Flo Scholz(my dreaded inlaws!)  who flew in all the way from New Hampshire to take care of our daughter Emma while were away, and finally my Mother, Sheila Putnam,(who I occasionally bicker with but love and trust more than anything) who drove all the way from Iowa to care for Emma.  It wouldn’t have been possible without these people.  Finally a photo that shows why we were so grateful to be home , even after a trip of a lifetime.

Our wonderful daughter, Emma who makes me smile every day.

Our wonderful daughter, Emma who makes me smile every day.


Broken Top Photography Adventures

     Some of my favorite Central Oregon hiking areas are the alpine basins that surround Broken Top Mountain, located in the Three Sisters Wilderness Area near Mt. Bachelor.  There are several beautiful hiking trails that hive good access to amazing alpine scenery high on the flanks of Broken Top, including the Tam McArthur Rim Trail, Park Meadows Trail, Green Lakes Trail, the Crater Ditch Trail, and the Broken Top Crater Trail.  All these trails have their own unique visual attractions and different time frames at which they are at their floral apex.  This of course means that , as a backcountry photographer I’m forced to make several photographic journeys to Broken Top every year.  What torture.  Tam McArthur Rim is one of the first Hikes my wife and I did when we moved to Oregon.  It is beautiful, rugged, not too difficult, and easily accesible from the city of Sisters, Oregon, where we lived at the time.  We now live in Bend, Oregon but the Sisters area still holds a special place in our hearts.  

     One of my favorite images of Tam McArthur Rim, which extends eastward from the shoulders of Broken Top and is highly visible from the city of Sisters is found below.

Middle Sister, North Sister, Mt Washington, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Jefferson as seen from Tam McArthur Rim

Middle Sister, North Sister, Mt Washington, Three Fingered Jack, and Mt. Jefferson as seen from Tam McArthur Rim

 This shot was taken from Tam McArthur Rim and displays Middle Sister, North Sister, Mt. Washington, Three Fingered Jack and Mt. Jefferson to the far right.  Obviously it was a spectacular sunset, one well worth the hike and even worth the uneasy feeling that comes with a cold hike out in the dark of night.  Another of my favorite locations on Broken Top is the area covered by Broken Top Trail.  This trail starts at a high elevation and stays there.  The next image is from a couple years ago but I’m still fond of it.  It was taken in the glacial basin at the southern end of the Broken Top trail. 

 

Broken Top as seen from the end of the Broken Top Trail with a wildflower foreground in Central Oregon.

Broken Top as seen from the end of the Broken Top Trail with a wildflower foreground in Central Oregon.

      Finally I’ll include several images from a recent series of explorations on the east side of Broken Top.  I scouted this area several times within the same week and decided the flowers would soon climax.  I then made sunrise outings on consecutive mornings to appropriately capture what I considered an exceptional floral display with a gorgeous back drop of Broken Top’s crater.  The first morning, the light was poor and it was very hazy due to forest fires in the vicinity.  The next was different.  I awoke at 3:30 AM grabbed my enormous backpack full of cameras and lenses and drove to Sparks Lake to determine if the conditions warranted a long drive down forest service road 1370 with an hour long off trail hike carrying 50 pounds of gear to follow, all before sunrise.  The conditions at Sparks Lake were questionable at best.  Broken Top was completely obscured except for occasional glimpses of its summit.  I envisioned moody light enhancing an already gorgeous foreground backed by the theatre of Broken Top’s pinnacles intertwined with misty morning clouds.  This was one of those mornings where I gambled and won!  Below are several images I’m thrilled with and I feel the best is yet to come.  Only on exceptional occasions like this do I shoot with my 4×5 camera with the hope that a beautiful fine art print will be the ultimate reward.  When the light was at its most dramatic, I utilized my 4×5 film camera and when it was less optimal, I shot with my high end digital SLR.  So, what you see are essentially the second class images from a special morning.  I’ll let everyone know if the prints come out as well as I hope they will.  Regardless, enjoy the next few images and please let me know which you prefer by leaving comments at the end of this article.  

 

Central Oregon's broken Top shrouded in mystic clouds and fronted by a beautiful field of flowers.

Central Oregon's broken Top shrouded in mystic clouds and fronted by a beautiful field of flowers.

 

Broken Top with a foreground of Indian paintbrush, senecio, larkspur and pink monkeyflowers

Broken Top with a foreground of Indian paintbrush, senecio, larkspur and pink monkeyflowers

 

Even Mt. Bachelor posed for a few images.

Even Mt. Bachelor posed for a few images.

Overall it was a beautiful and rewarding morning in one of my favorite backcountry locations, high on the flanks of Broken Top Mountain, in the heart of the Central Oregon Cascades.